A list of “don’ts” includes:
- Don’t use adhesives directly on fine textiles
- Don’t hang any textile with rings, because this will distribute the weight of the fabric unevenly. (Think of how shower curtains sag.)
- Don’t use spring clips (often used by carpet retailers) for long-term use.
- Don’t use carpet tack strips because the sharp edges cut the fibers and eventually rust.
There are plenty of options left, so consider using one of the following techniques:
Casings:
Ideal for heavy weavings, rugs and tapestries, casings are created of heavy cotton, linen, or even cotton twill rug binding. The binding is hand-sewn across the top of the back of the piece, stopping just short of each side. Note: Be sure your casing is straight. Then, simply insert a metal rod slightly shorter than the width of the weaving (but longer than the casing) and hang the rod from angled nails or screws in the wall.
Velcro:
Hand-sew the soft side of a Velcro strip onto the top back of the textile, being careful to not allow stitches to show on the display side. Staple or glue the other side of the Velcro strip onto a wooden board, and mount the board on the wall.
Then simply press the textile into place. Large or heavy items could require wider Velcro strips, or even two strips for extra strength.
Stretchers:
Like stretching canvas for a painting, very heavy fabric pieces can be stretched and tacked over a wood frame or painted plywood. You can also stretch lightweight fabrics like silk this way, but use a layer of soft cotton flannel between the frame and the silk.
Foam Core:
Small or delicate pieces (like doilies and runners) are easily mounted with pins on thick acid-free cardboard or foam core. First, wrap the foam core in a solid fabric. Then carefully sew or pin the piece(s) to the front. Now it’s ready for framing!
back to archives
|
